Spring Collections - Reviews from New York

     Sorry I'm a bit behind! I just had a few points to express on some collections that were shown in New York before I move on to those in Milan, and then Paris.

OHNE TITEL -

   Ohne Titel is a brand with a strong point of view: rough and edgy. That aesthetic was translated into a collection that brought one back to summer days with scuba-detailing. Thick, rubber suits bodysuits were worn under softer, romantic dresses. I especially loved the lines of all the clothes - they were cut close to the body in rounded shapes that gave a sporty and practical feel. There is a most evident theme this season of pairing two things that are opposite. In this case, we had business-like vests paired with scuba-gear detailing and like cotton and silk dresses. A great collection overall of edgy and young pieces.

PRABAL GURUNG -

    The inspiration of classic American sportswear and 90's minimalism were ever-present in this collection. The colorful dresses at the beginning reminded me of the Comme des Garcons s/s '95 collection. The simple shapes and calf-blazing cuts help to focus on the colors and pureness of the pieces. I was not fond of, however, of the corset-topped feather dresses at the end of the collection. They seemed to disrupt the rest of the simple and powerful pieces with ill-fitting shapes and busyness that was not needed. Gurung offers a lot to American fashion and he captures the sportswear well, but cohesiveness was an issue in this collection.

RAG & BONE -

     This collection was one of the first to start off New York Fashion Week, and rightly so. It's hard to want to see anything but minimalism and simple shapes, especially when I see the pieces of this collection. I loved the clips - like the ones off of backpacking bags - used as zippers and accents to the clothes. The first few looks were in white, and then appeared the liquid golds and silvers. I loved how off-beat some of the looks were: biker shorts that resembled garters paired with sheer skirts and sporty, utility belt-type tops. Even though inspirations were coming from all sides, the looks look pulled together in a very fresh way.

MARC JACOBS -

  Marc Jacobs presented a collection that was more of an ode to Yves Saint Laurent and the '70s than something new and fashion-forward. I guess we must respect our past while still moving on into the future. The lengths were down to the ankle and the fabrics soft and light. In an ever-changing fashion industry where seasons are bumping and blending into eachother, it was truly delightful to see something that actually was truly like the spring/summer label it was given. I especially loved the sheerness of the looks: just easy, effortless looks in friendly hues that showed some skin while remaining fully covered. I have to say, this Jacobs collection is not a favorite of mine, but I do embrace the let's-put-our-troubles-aside theory that it has to offer.

Pictures via Style.Com