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Proenza Schouler - F/W 2012

Glad you're back, boys! After the spring show which involved incredibly restricted, 1950's silhouettes, I'm happy to see that Jack and Lazaro are going back to the more relaxed, cool silhouette that has become so signature to their name. Working with the idea of protection, the inspiration of karate 'gi' and other eastern influences was apparent, yet not in the least overbearing. The collection simply seemed to take an idea rather than a literal translation of the white suits. The use of leather mesh and structured layers played off each other nicely, creating an interesting proportion.
  Outwear was one of the strongest elements in the collection: the leather jackets with the large, rounded shoulders and asymmetrical fur collars looked practical and durable but also incredibly versatile.
    I enjoyed the color scheme and use of brocade, as well. Again drawing from an eastern influence, the brocades were still very modern and not in the least costume-y. Beautiful, rather. I don't think I can stress enough that this was, for me, the strongest collection out of New York. They reinforced coming trends such as the wide-leg, low-waisted slouch pant (need to get my hands on a pair) and the oversized yet structural outwear that we'll be seeing this fall.

All pics via Style.Com

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