Paris Shows -- Part Three

  So, this could be the last of these mini reviews for a while. I will highlight some of the shows that I need to, in great length, some other time. For now, here are reviews of some shows.

CHLOE. Beige, menswear, the usual. But, this time we saw a little bit of the wild west. I don't actually mind McGibbon's collections - though they are the same. I guess because she has mastered the polished menswear for women. But, there was there were a couple of things that bothered me about this collection. First, the almost-too-similar looks of Céline 2010 that seemed to be walking down the runway for a second time, in this collection. Perhaps to show Philo that McGibbon is a better match for Chloé and that she should not be stepping into her "beige territory?" No, that can't be true. The second thing that I did not like about this collection was its progession. Tailored suits to cable knit onsies to wild west, all in ten minutes? Please, I think the collection needs to be a journey, a journey that moves gradually and naturally - not just jumping around from inspiration-to-inspiration.

LOUIS VUITTON. Well, it certainly has helped that Marc Jacobs is there. I mean, a company built on a monogram can get a little unstable at times. Nevertheless, Vuitton is doing very well and this collection helped to prove that. All of the shapes were meant for real women - not just the 17-something models that strut down the catwalk, today. Jacobs used actual adults that had the shape of a real woman's body in the show. That seems to be the statement, this season. All of the clothes were pretty. Not dynamic, not chic, not modern - pretty. We need some of that on the runway, don't we? The only complaint I have is that the collection is way too similar to his own fall collection. This is something that I have been noticing for a while now, about Jacobs's work for Louis. It seems to look too much (almost identicle) to what he does for his own label. Other than that, good collection for sensible women.

VICKTOR & ROLF. Hmmm...where to begin? First off, momma hand clothes down to little girls? Does that make sense, probably not. Moving on, the whole collection seemed to taken off the first model and transformed into new things, to be put on the younger models. I am sure Viktor and Rolf were thinking, "Thank God for drawstrings!" These boys always put on a great show but when it comes to more wearable pieces, they look kind of cheap or fake. Great volume and usage with those feather-like coats, though!

KENZO. All I can say is, amazing 70's! Just the autumn hues and flowyness on the dresses, pants,etc. Felt hats and boots paired with relaxed skirts and printed knit tops. I can just see some Upper West Side woman in LIFE magazine, when I see this collection. Someone who has a job that is hard, dresses modestly on weekends, but wonderful enough for her male co-workers to fall in love with her. Well, there's a nice look into the mind of Emma, or should I say Madame Couture? The mixing of hectic prints was masterfully done and the mix of deconstructed menswear with flowy, florals was just perfection. Immaculate!

CELINE. Clean, crisp, chic. Oh, and from the first look, I could not help but to think of Francoise Hardy, a French pop-star in the 1960s. I think that taking a break from fashion was good for Philo. She came back with a very different look at fashion. One that is more minimalist, and clean. I liked that she coaxed us (or me at least) into thinking that something was going to be a piece of menswear but then once you look at the details, it is just so feminine. Whether a shear net blouse or or crop trouser, I Philo embodies what it means to be a chic Parisienne. The only thing I wonder about, is how changed she has become. Can you really go from flowy prints and billowy skirts to edgy minimalism? Perhaps, but I think Philo has been pressured to reinvent herself into this whole, new designer.

MIU MIU. An amazing continuation from last season: little girls in girly clothes. All of those baby doll shapes and structured pockets are amazing. Mrs. Prada knows how to shout out a hidden meaning in her clothing and I think this collection had one. We're not so little, anymore! The dresses seemed really short and looked kind of like this girl did had to make do with what she had and add her more ladylike gems, etc. Well done! A little repetitve but well done.

GIVIENCHY. Tisci has a very directional style, but this season he seems to have taken a new approach. "I was thinking of the ski world, and the scuba world," Tisci said of his collection. I did see elements of both, in the clothes. It was so clever for him to create the effect of peeling of layers of the ski uniform, as they entered the lodge. Thank goodness for color and, on top of that, the mixing of classic ski prints. Where did the scuba come in, you ask? In the body-con dresses and skirts that had prints of deep, dark sea creatures. A step in the right direction for Ricardo Tisci. I can't wait to see what will come next season!