If ever there was a sense to going back to you what you do best, it would be this season in Milan. Continuations of the spring shows, or going back to things that designers did several years ago; they are telling us: This is what we are, this is what we will always will be. Milan, in my mind, is not a place of great avant-garde designs, it is a place of old houses still run by the same family, and they keep producing goods with that almighty Made in Italy tailoring. So, to get to the point, craftsmanship is more important than anything.
GUCCI. I am not a Gucci fan and this collection certainly did not make more any more of one. In a sense, Frida Gianni, got away from the glitzy-glam and seguins of past collections but perhaps she went to far back into Gucci's past. Not an innovative or to-die-for collection, just one of those collections that are pretty (maybe not even that) and are just good becuase of that - no message, no inspiration, just clothes. And, for me, fashion is more than clothes (that'll be for anothrer time). Overall, not a very impressive collection, but, nice trousers.
MISSONI. Missoni,what can I say? These past couple of collections have really taken a turn for the better at this iconic label. The prints are becoming more modern and minimalist instead of busy knits that granny easily could have worn. Not that a fine elder woman could not wear this collection, but you know what I mean. Again, the contintuation of the past collection in the sense of the 90's minimalism. I mean, amazing capes and coats paired with exceptional dresses, shorts, and skirts. The mixing and vibrancy of the colors was unlike anything I had seen before. To me, the inspiration was Scottish men (or in this case, women) in kilts escaping to a 90's rave party and then exploring the world with a nomadic tribe. Amazing collection, no?
VERSACE. More of the same. But, perhaps a tougher edge. The moment I saw the collection I thought: That Brigitte Bardot called "Harley Davidson" where she dances around a Harley in a leather romper and thigh-high boots. Movies seem to be a big inspiration in Donatella's collections and this time the theme was Avatar. Blue, blue, blue. Nice tailoring, bold colors, and daring cuts made this collection good, but not great.
MARNI. I really love the collection. I don't think any label can make frumpy shapes in bold prints look chic. The colors and prints were amazing as always. I like the simple lines, and toned-down approach to the looks. Wearing Marni truly is and art form, in itself. Some of the shapes did come out a little odd...things that could have been so easy to take out, etc. Overall, well done collection. I'll always love a good Marni collection.
DOLCE & GABBANA. Continuation of the spring collection, as you can see. More fitted blazers over lingerie bottoms. Supposedly, there was not a dry eye in the house. I don't know that if they the boys (please slap me more my impolite casuallness in my reference to Domenico and Stefano) had not played that "our clothes are made but us for you" video in the background, that the collection would have gotten that much of a response. I guess, in a way, the real, rich roots of Dolce are back: animal prints, fitted tailoring, and lingerie accents. Not a favorite of mine, but if you want a GREAT fitting jacket, you know who to call!
That's all for now, if I get the chance I will review some of the other shows -- Of course, I won't. Can't you see? I did about 1/10 of my NY reviews and the Paris shows are piling up! Anyway, thanks for checking in with this lil' ol' blog o' mine!